by Swetha Ramachandran
[box]Exotic dishes tease the traditional Indian tongue. How’s Indian cuisine holding up against its enchanting counterparts from across the world? Swetha Ramachandran explores the battle between Indian and foreign cuisines – read on to know what emerges the winner – or is there one?[/box]It is an era where dim sums have taken over papdi chaat, choco-lattes have conquered chakarai pongal and cocktails have knocked out nimbu paani. Good old kaiyendhi bhavans (road side eateries) and chaat walas are slowly making their exits, whilst theme restaurants and restro-bars are hogging the limelight. Why, even the good old idly-dosa family diners are being replaced by their chic, expensive, high stool flashing counterparts. Whatever happened to the friendly neighbourhood restaurant with its marble topped tables and steel chairs?
Continental, Chinese, Arabian, Malaysian, Italian and every other cuisine around the world has extended itself to the Indian platter, and our own pooris and pongals have been pushed out of the limelight. The upma (dish made with cooked semolina and vegetables) that comes to help during kitchen emergencies has lost it coveted post to the sandwich. And what about those forever-dinner- plate-filling naans that gleam with dollops of butter and the soft, succulent paneers soaked in spicy thick gravy? Well, they are bravely gearing up for their imminent exit from the culinary world in India.
It’s surprising how quickly things have changed. Just a decade back, waffles, donuts and scones were those delectable dishes that one could never aspire to lay their hands upon. I remember having read about all those in Enid Blyton’s books where her teen investigators would gulp those delicacies along with lemonade or ginger ale. How I used to long for those dishes and picture myself biting into one for my evening snack. Pastas and dim sums were the elite dishes served only to travel show hosts on television, who would go gung-ho about it whereupon I would try imagining what it would taste like, back home!
Pizzas being one of the first ‘foreign’ dishes to enter India, along with noodles, were not something that I particularly fancied way back then! They were quite chewy and slimy and did not please my taste buds. But now that I think of it, it’s ironical as pizza is my perennial favourite and noodles and pastas happen to be the only dishes that I can ‘cook’! And today, with the cuisines from all over the world having opened their branches in every nook and corner of our country, there isn’t one dish that is unavailable or inaccessible! Yes, we needn’t any longer envy the globetrotters and TV show hosts!
Whilst its celebration time for foodies, the ‘Ambuja-mamis’ and ‘Radha- bens’ of our country aren’t happy about this invasion of world cuisine into India. The dishes they’ve invented and recipes they’ve guarded and carried over generations seem to be disappearing for good; they complain. Experimentation is not their forte and these orthodox Indians are not satisfied with the bland Chinese or the spicy Mexican. Only the good old, balanced Indian menu can satiate their tongues.
In an era where we health conscious Indians are frying our appalams in the oven and having corn flakes for breakfast, it is only fair that we accept the globalization of the rest of the culinary world too. But being a sucker for homemade food, I can’t help but fight for their rights too. With a war raging between world cuisines, I am torn between the chewy, fruity pancake and ghee bathed paper roast. On the other hand, nothing can ever compensate the taste of a fluffy, soft idly along with the juicy coconut chutney for me. Also I know for a fact that I would never lose the love I have for the kadalai mittais, those gooey, sweet, jaggery and peanut mixed delicacies, no matter how many brownies or fudges try to take their place.
Finally, the home food patriot has overpowered the aspiring food enthusiast in me. And I’ve decided it’s time for the pizzas and pastas to stick to their weekend slots and refrain from eating into the spaces of their Indian counterparts! Let the satays and sevai peacefully coexist, let the falafels not dominate the parathas. Let peace prevail over the platter!
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